The Challenge of File Storage and Backup

(Repost – first posted Sept 2009)

One of the things I hear and read a lot about digital photography is how instant it is and also how limitless it is to take lots and lots of images. Using film you are limited to how many exposures the film has available, and you don’t get to see the final image until it has been processed, and then you find out you chopped off the head of the tallest person!

So shooting in digital allows much more freedom with quantity of images. But the idea that digital is limitless is incorrect. Because all the files, while virtual, take up a certain amount of space, and that space exists in the physical plane as the space allowance on your hard drive.

And the bigger the sensor size, the bigger the file size seems to be. My rule of thumb is “whatever the megapixels of the camera will be the megabyte size of the image”. Its a very loose approximation but does the trick for most people.

So you get yourself a camera and shoot hundreds of images. And over time those hundreds become thousands, and if you are really serious even tens or hundreds of thousands.

These days hard drives are measured in gigabytes (the larger ones are in terabytes) – but what does that really mean.

1 Bit = Binary Digit
8 Bits = 1 Byte
1000 Bytes = 1 Kilobyte (KB)
1000 Kilobytes = 1 Megabyte (MB)
1000 Megabytes = 1 Gigabyte (GB)
1000 Gigabytes = 1 Terabyte (TB)

These days about the smallest size hard drive you will get with a new computer is 80GB (gigabyte). If you have a camera taking 5MB images, theoretically

80 x 1000= 80000 (no of GB times number of megabytes to get total number of megabytes)

80000 divided by 5 = 16000 maximum number of images.

Quite a lot you would think, but you have to remember that a computer hard drive has to have space for all the *other* things – like the operating system, program files, email, mp3 and all the other data it accumulates. And you need to allow about 25% free hard drive space for temporary files each time your computer starts up – so you are already limited to 75% capacity.

And of course if you are shooting in RAW and getting 12MB files like my camera produces, your hard drive fills up even faster. So what are your options?

1. Invest in larger hard drive – either replace the one you have, or if you have space, add an additional one. I refer here to hard drives installed internally in your machine

2. Obtain external hard drive storage. These are now quite cheap and readily available. You have the choice of USB, Firewire or eSATA. USB is the most common interface but not as fast as Firewire or eSATA. eSATA is a newer technology that requires a special port that your computer may not have, but you can get a special card fitted to allow the connection.

Seagate and Western Digital are a couple of well known hard drive brands

3. Store files online. This is essentially what Flickr and Picasa and the other image websites do for you, and why you have to pay for the services if you are uploading lots of images.

4. Burn images onto archival disk – a CD holds 650MB of data, but a DVD disk holds roughly 4GB – so you can fit a lot on a disk.

5. Network Storage – NAS and DAS options. Probably more for the serious enthusiast or professional due to the cost.

But there is also a much bigger question. Not just ‘ where do I fit all these files’ – but ‘ how do I make sure I keep them and never lose them’ ?

Once you download the image off your camera data card, they are at risk. Your computer might die, or get stolen (or if its a laptop – lost). A pipe could burst and flood the house, or even a fire. And once the computer and its hard drive are gone or completely damaged, your precious images are lost to you forever!! So what do you do?

Backup. BACKUP. BACKUP

Always backup your data (not just your photo files but any other precious data) because you never know when something might go wrong.

How do I backup my data?

Excellent question, there are many ways, and the professionals probably use more than one of them in combination. Its an added expense so make your choice as well as you can. Also find someone who knows about computers whose advice you trust to give you some pointers (not just me!)

1. Easiest way to do a backup is to install a RAID 1 array.

RAID 1 is when you install 2 hard drives in your computer using RAID technology. If your computer does not have onboard RAID you will need to install a RAID card (and most laptops can only take one hard drive FYI) The first drive is the drive you see and store your files on, the second drive has absolutely everything copied over to it every time you use the first drive. So if the first drive fails in anyway you have a copy. Once this is correctly installed and configured you don’t need to do anything, it all happens automatically.

I have this on my computer which is now nearly 4 years old, and I have had about 4 hard drive failures, which have not been a disaster because it has been rebuilt from the second drive.

2. Get some external storage, and store copies of everything on it – like a RAID option except manual. You can also get special photography backup hard drives you can take with you that you can insert your data card into, and backup while you are out and about.

Epson P7000 with a screen is an example of one of these

3. Have an external hard drive copy but you STORE THE EXTERNAL COPY SOMEWHERE ELSE!!

So if the house is damaged or broken into, the copy is protected. You might bring it home once a week and do a backup so the most you will lose is a weeks worth of data.

This is my next phase of personal backup philosopy – as soon as I can afford it, I am buying one of these:

Simpletech Duo Pro Drive – it has eSATA for speed and two drives in RAID 1 for extra extra security

Most external harddrives like these come with special software to help you setup your backups for specific folders and schedule for daily backups at the same time every day and other useful things.

4. Online backup services – there are a lot of these available. You pay based on the amount of data you upload. I haven’t used one myself, and I am uncertain about privacy and data storage policies. And I would also want to know in detail what *their* backup and Disaster Recovery procedures were as well.

5. Network or Direct Attached Storage (NAS or DAS) – larger storage solutions for a serious computer user needing a lot of storage.

6. Archival disk storage. I have read some pro photographers do this as well as several other steps above

Then of course there is the trial of once you have LOTS of images, how do you FIND THEM once you have save them? That is the purpose of your image software, and to be honest is a topic I am now beginning to struggle with myself. My personal philosophy is to create lots and lots of folders (within folders) and so far this has worked, but now I am shooting lots more, I am beginning to wonder if there is a cleverer way to do it.

I have had The DAM book recommended to me – DAM is Digital Asset Management. I haven’t read it yet, but I have it on reserve at my library. I’m hoping its going to shed some light on how to better manage lots of photos

Weekly Photo Challenge: Escape

 

 

This Weeks Challenge is Escape. Depending on your current mood and headspace, or time in your life, this word can evoke different emotions and conjure a variety of images. Maybe the end of your semester is near, and you yearn for vacation and release: the desire to disappear and run away, the need to unplug and shut off.

For me escape is and always has been books. I was a very bookish child and mostly enjoyed school, I like reading and learning new things.  For me real escape is into the worlds created by the science fiction and fantasy authors I like to read, to get lost in another place with magic or science, plots and derring do, thats how I escape.

And the best thing?  You can go back anytime you read that book again!

I think this was taken before any earthquakes, it looks fairly tidy and organised – click to embiggen

And this is very much after at least one big earthquake, everying is just jammed in where it will fit Click to embiggen

Books and reading is the one thing in my life that I spent more time on than my photography   Any one else out there a SF / Fan reader?

How to buy a tripod – the wrong way

(Repost – first posted Aug 2009)

I say this, because I don’t know how to buy a tripod the right way – I found tripods extremely confusing, especially when buying one for the first time when I have never used one and had no idea what I was looking for.

I bought an Induro A2 kit and this is the process I went through:

- read obsessively online for reviews and articles about tripods
- establish that the two most preferred brands are Manfrotto and Gitzo
- establish these are also the most expensive brands
- find out that you usually buy the tripod separately and then you get the head to match
- discover that not all tripod heads are the same
- learn that not all tripods are created equal

Given I live in NZ where not everything is available, I had to find out what brands were available here. Turns out Manfrotto is fairly commong but Gitzo is not, but it is available. So I went looking for actual tripods in the wild and this is what I found out:

- Manfrotto and Gitzo tripods are actually quite solid and heavy – there are carbon fibre models available but they are still a noticeable weight (and carbon fibre is LOTS more expensive again)
- Induro have some aluminium frame tripods that were a lot lighter
- both of the Manfrotto and Gitzo models that were recommended (ie in my price range) and demonstrated for me were too damn short. I am only 5’6″ but they only seemed to up to about 5′ and that meant you had to extend the center pole up several inches for it to be at eye level (otherwise I would have to crouch down a lot and I have a neck injury which means that would be very difficult and painful) and this seemed to defeat the whole purpose of a tripod
- Induro had a model that was exactly the right height
- Gitzo legs screw and unscrew (this was recommended on a forum for people wanting to shot birds/animals as the quietest option)
- Manfrotto and Induro have the hinged clips that keep the legs in position, but the Manfrotto were quite loud and flappy but the Induro were quieter
- Gitzo and Manfrotto heads were available in ball and pan/tilt styles but both were very large and heavy

Article Ball vs Panhead with good explanation of the difference

- Wimberley heads are really funky – designed for the REALLY big heavy lens, but I really like the overall concept

Wimberley Head

-there are other brands of head that you can get entirely separately that are discussed on some of the forums I am on – one that was regularly mentioned is the Really Right Stuff range

- feet on the end of the legs are apparently important, some brands have spikes which are better for outdoor use and some rounded ends good for indoor use
- weird foldable tripods exist – the Benbo Trekker is the one I hear mentioned the most and I kindof get my head around how it works – and they are available in NZ!

- some tripods have a setup where the centerpole can be swivelled out sideways, which could have its uses (from the image example, macro work or something down at ground level)

- some tripods have support bars from the centerpole out to the legs – I am not sure if this limits how far out the legs can spread (thats a good thing to check if the legs come up quite high apparently)

- monopods are also available, not as stable, but as I found out in my reading there are lots of places/situations where a tripod is not either allowed (museums and art galleries?) or would get in the way (sport games) but apparently a monopod will be overlooked!

- 4 legged tripods are now coming out – quadropod I think is the term

- some will come in a carry bag which is a nice touch, if only for storage

- take it with you when travelling on a plane in the cabin – apparently its easy to damage the legs and if they dont open or are bent thats the end of a good tripod

- its really important to make sure that your tripod and head combo are going to be the right gear to hold up your camera and lens together – a lightweight cheap tripod will not properly support a heavy lens

- the big lenses are mounted directly on the tripod lens mount – heres a really extreme example see how the tripod is in the middle of the lens and the camera is just hanging off the end! First time I saw this I freaked

- you can use other things for those awkward to reach places – bean bags – GorillaPod

SUMMARY

As you can see there is lots to consider – I bought the Induro A2 kit because:

- it was as tall as I needed it to be
- it was light
- came in a nice bag with a shoulder strap
- I could afford it
- I liked the way it felt to use and it did what I though I might want to do
- it would cope with the camera and lenses I was intending to get

Extra Notes – more useful articles on Tripods and how to use them

http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/tripod-photography.html

Quest for Perfect Tripod Head article

http://shutterbug.com/equipmentreviews/accessories/0609tripods/

Weekly Photo Challenge: Pattern

Click to see larger image which clearly shows the feather details and patterns

Pattern. Patterns are everywhere. Patterns are sometimes intentional and sometimes accidental. They can be decorative or merely a result of repetition, and often patterns can be in the eye of the beholder to discover them.

My image for this weeks challenge is a photo of a NZ Fantail (or Piwakawaka).  These tiny birds flit and fly with amazing dexterity and are incredibly difficult to photograph well.  Fortunately they do occasionally stop on a handy branch for a rest, and if your camera is quick enough, you *can* get a nice shot.

What I like about this image for the challenge is that if you look at a bigger size you can see amazing pattern detail in how all the feathers are laid out.  I find my eyes can get quite lost trying to unravel where it goes

Weekly Photo Challenge: From Above

Center of a spiky green plant, identity unknown – it could be a celmisia – click to embiggen

This weeks Photo Challenge is From Above. Change your perspective on something. Share a photo of a subject which you shot from directly above.

This is the centre of a mystery green spiky plant I came across in a ramble around our Botanic gardens, thought it would make an excellent entry in this weeks Photo Challenge.

It *might* be a celmisia but I wouldn’t bet any money on it.

Can anyone identify the mystery plant from this image?

 

Rules of Composition Followup

(Repost – first posted Sept 2009)

So I posted my Rules of Composition post in a couple of photography blogs I hang out in, and got some really interesting responses, and some new ideas and concepts.

Big SHOUT OUT to the folks on the Fred Miranda Nature and Wildlife forum and HelloPhoto Nature Forum. Many people took a lot of time to write thoughtful and interesting responses in answer to my question – you guys ROCK !

And the main theme of the replies was along the lines of ‘break the rules’ or ‘not rules but guidelines’ or ‘don’t be defined by the rules’. Excellent stuff and I agree totally. Once I have a better feel for how the rules are supposed to work, and see an improvement in my photography, then I might feel brave enough to start asserting myself creatively.

Here is a summary of the ideas and concepts and advice that were given me:

- to get a better feel for good composition, look at paintings by the Masters (and I extend that out to photography by the Masters as well)

- KEEP SHOOTING !

- shoot what you find interesting and try and make it aesthically pleasing

- some people post only perfect images, some people are accepting that the world is not perfect, and sometimes thats just the shot you got

- keep it simple (avoid clutter)

- frame the shot well – pay attention to all of the image, not just the point of interest

- learn to see in 3D as well as 2D

- have some foreground interest

- don’t always shoot from standing, get down low or up high – either way, change your angle or viewpoint in some way

- give the image a solid grounding, either by shadow placement or area of tone

SUMMARY:

Lots of new concepts to think about! And good ideas that hadn’t occured to me before.

Here are a couple of my personal goals to keep in mind immediately:

1. Look in all 4 corners and along the edges when framing up the image. Is there better positioning, stuff I want to exclude, have I chopped something off. Look at *all* of the image before going ‘click’

2. Do the different heights and angles and viewpoints. I have seen the benefit already with some duckling shots, and I tried it today with some daffodil shots, and I quite like it.

Note: this requires wearing rough and tumble clothes, and probably taking something waterproof/ protective to lie on

I hope that if I concentrate on these two until they become automatic, then that will help my photos improve in quality.

Update in 2013 – here is a photo taken in Hanmer back in Aug 2009

And here is a similar shot taken Dec 2012

Does it look like from these shots that I *have* learned something about composition?

What are the Rules of Composition?

(Repost – first posted Sept 2009)

Now I have started taking photos and posting them in forums for feedback, I am dealing with the question of composition. What is it? How do you do it? What is good composition? What are these Rules I hear about?

The way I think about it, all the elements of photography are like food ingredients, and the composition is the final cooked product. Sometimes it takes good and looks awful, sometimes the other way around, and sometimes you nail it and it looks good, tastes good and smells good

But with photography there is an extra stage in the image processing which adds a layer of complexity around what you can do once you have crafted your image in camera.

I am quite confused with some feedback I am getting, because it seems to be conflicting. Its not bad feedback at all, and has been useful, its just different to what I already knew. So lets review the rules of photography composition – in no particular order:

1. Rule of Thirds

This is not new to me in that I was taught to divide a scene up into thirds and make it balanced. Particularly for landscape shots, don’t have the horizon across the middle of the image (unless you are doing a mirror reflection in a lake and thats your only option)

But now I am seeing people recommend that the key points of interest should be at the points where the lines intersect. This is new to me. I have seen this idea also called the Golden Section Rule.

2. Directional Lines (or converging lines)

Can be straight or curving or S shaped. Use these to bring the eye to the point of interest in the image. Paths, roads, fences etc fulfill this. Not new to me but the extra bonus points for having them finish in a corner is.

3. Geometric shapes

The idea behind this is to position key elements of the image on the points of a geometric shape – the one mentioned often is a triangle. This is new to me.

4. Framing the Image

I discovered this one for myself – use something within the image to frame the point of interest – shoot thru a door way or a window or an archway are classic examples. Or a tree and a solid branch do nicely as well.

5. Have the light behind you

Now I know that this rule is made to be broken, cos sometimes it just isn’t behind you. But for a silhouette it needs to be in front of you (but with the subject in between you), side lighting is very effective when used well, lighting thru objects like flower petals. I guess the idea here is that you need to see the light and use it creatively and have the image properly exposed for the light you are using. Oh and dont point your lens into the sun, it will damage the camera sensor and I dont think is good for your eye either !

6. Colour

Colour provides a point of interest and the eye is naturally drawn to the colour. Also individual colours have their own issues depending on the light – white blows out easily in direct light and you lose detail. Red can have a similar effect – can be very difficult to get texture and detail out of bright red flowers. Shiny surfaces have issues with over blown highlights as well. I am struggling with the blown highlights.

7. Texture

I guess this is about ensuring if there is detail present to make sure you capture it, wood grain, raw stone, fine details in leaves, feathers on birds etc.

Also related here is closer up images with the same texture – pictures of a tray of eggs, lots of strawberries, pebbles, marbles, a mass of leaves or branches. Similarity has a certain appeal here.

8. Symmetry

A symmetrical image is naturally pleasing to the eye. However the lack of this can be challenging in its own way – whether you manage to pull that off I guess has to be decided once you try?

9. Positioning of Key Elements Off Centre

This is another one I think beginners struggle with, I know I do. This is about using many of these features at once to support the Key Off Centre Element. And about balancing out the rest of the picture. And where the eye travels across/around the image.

10. Reflections

There are millions of images of pretty mountains reflected in lakes, and the really good ones are …. really good. But this is about thinking outside the square – reflections in puddles, in mirrors, in windows or other shiny surfaces. About framing the image so it may only be the reflection (and you have to guess?) or in other creative ways. I look forward to playing with this one.

11. Silhouette

Never had a chance to be able to try this, but I have seen some stunning images. I think you have to put a bit of planning and forethought into this one. And be careful not to shoot into the sun and damage the sensor.

12. Backgrounds

This is a big one, and I know when taking photos of flowers in gardens etc that it is a big one. If you can, pick an undistracting background if you have a particular point of interest to highlight. Unless of course the background is part of the point of interest. Use the right aperture to either blur out the background or include in the image. And if you have a specific point of interest (like a flower) a contrasting colour makes the image stand out more – I see lots of close up flower images with either a black or a white background, very stark and simplistic.

13. When shooting animals or people focus on the eyes.

Now this is new to me, but since I have been experimenting with shooting birds, I can see what a HUGE difference it makes to the feel of the image. Although I have a cute duckling photo where he has his tiny eyelids closed for a quick nap and I think its adorable

14. Fill the frame with the subject

This is the one I am struggling with, I have been advised not to crop so tightly but the reason I do is I picked up this snippet of advice somewhere along the way. Perhaps it is a matter of individual preference? I am experimenting with including more background and we shall see.

Wow, thats a LOT of stuff to think about! I know sometimes when I have time, and room to move around and get a different viewpoint or perspective, I might unconciously process some of these, and there are some obvious things that might jump out at you (shadows in wrong place, a distracting element, messy fore/ground etc) but there is a lot of other stuff to remember.

I guess I just have to keep shooting and asking for advice and just seeing what works. Im wondering if you have to train your ‘eye’ to see some of these things? Is that the advantage the really good photographer have, they naturally ‘see’ this stuff and have an innate ability to capture it, where I have to grind away at it. I hope I can learn, but I’m having fun trying

Some of the websites I used for reference – they have lots of photos to help explain the concepts:

Digital Photography School Rules of Composititon

Amateur Snapper Rules of Compostion

John Harvey Photo Rules of Composition